One of the things that has always attracted me to late 16th Century menswear is their pockets. There are several examples of trunkhose and a pair of venetians depicted in Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion that include pockets. Until recently though I’d always been a little unsure of adding them to my own trunkhose. Even though I thought they were awesome I had always been afraid that if I tried to add them into my own pants that I’d mess them up and end up with big ugly holes instead of ultra cool pockets.
When I decided recently to redo my wardrobe starting with new rapier armor I decided I need to defeat my fear of making pockets. My new rapier armor would contain the pockets I had always envied in the extant examples.
I started with a pair of venetians patterned after those in Patterns of Fashion. I still need to attach the waist band and hem the legs but I have successfully completed the pockets so I thought I would include a tutorial on the process.
Adding a Pocket to Your Trunkhose or Ventians
This tutorial is based the Venetians depicted on p. 86 and p. 87 of Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion. That pattern was drafted up from the original and a muslin made to ensure a proper fit.
1. Mark the pocket slit on your hosen based on your pattern.
2. Cut open the pocket slit. If you have carefully pinned both sides of you pants together to ensure that nothing shifts you may cut both slits at the same time. However, if you are concerned then just cut one at a time.
3. Cut the linen for the pocket bag.
4. Measure the pocket slit.
5. Transfer the measurements of the pocket slit to the pocket bag.
6. Sew up the pocket bag taking care to leave the opening that will be sewn into the pocket slit.
7. Baste the top of the bag to the edge of the pants and carefully pin the edges of the pocket slit and the bag opening together.
8. Stitch the edges of the pocket slit and bag together using a whip or blind stitch. To reinforce the tops and bottoms of the pocket slit use a button hole stitch there.
9. Repeat for the other leg and enjoy your new pockets!